I am sticking this out here so I will have a place to send people as I often get asked what's needed to reload ammunition. Rather than some long bunch of instructions, or multiple different choices on what to buy, I stick with this stuff - no matter how advanced you get or when you start buying big Dillon progressive reloading presses, you will still use everything in this kit, so it's what you buy first:
Lyman T-Mag 2 turret press kit

It's got a manual beam scale, a little case trimmer and a bunch of hand tools you'll need plus a reloading manual. Lyman dies work best with lead bullets and their reloading manual reflects that so there are a lot of good load choices. The turret on top of the press lets you stick six dies in it and leave the dies adjusted, always handy - and if you reload for black powder cartridge rifles, you often end up needing all six holes for the various black powder dies, etc. The kit has Lyman's old reliable powder measure (though don't use it with black powder, they make another one that's non-sparking). You can get the kit with an electronic scale for maybe $20 more, but the scale is cheap and it pretty much sucks. The manual balance scale will do fine. Figure low $300 range for the kit.

Next is dies for whatever caliber. Dies are for the most part caliber specific. If you get Lee dies, they come with a shellholder. Everybody else, you have to get the shellholder separately. Lee dies are inexpensive and they work, but are not cut to the super tolerances of say Redding dies. What I did was bought Lyman's shellholder set so I generally have a shellholder that will work with whatever cartridge. Lee dies are around $25 for a set, Redding are maybe twice that. Grab a dial caliper someplace, that's to measure cartridge overall length and is just good for lots of things.

Then, I figure you have empty brass from the loaded factory cartridges that you've shot up — that's where a lot of the cost of a cartridge is — the brass. Buy some bullets (the reloading manual will list bullet weights and diameters), smokeless powder (again, what the load manual says) and whatever size primers. Some guns are somewhat bullet specific, like it's not too wise to shoot lead bullets in a Glock with a factory barrel, the Glock's rifling will pick up lead off the bullets and that can cause pressures in the barrel to go up. Not good. So, plated or jacketed bullets for Glocks. I run plated or jacketed in all automatics anyway, and pretty much all lead in revolvers.

The load manual has how you reload. It is a lot easier than some would have you believe, because I think the process of reloading is considered kind of an "expert's" thing — that's because the "experts" want the label expert, rather than just tell you that you'll be punching out the used primer, resizing the brass case, putting in a new primer and powder, pushing the bullet into the case and crimping the case around the bullet so the bullet stays where you put it. Everything else is extra. The extras will add to accuracy and other things, but the basic steps remain. If I can reload all the calibers that I used to play with, it can't be that hard. Pretty quickly, the cost savings over factory ammo will pay for the Lyman kit and dies. But, reloading really isn't a money saving endeavor. Everybody I know just ends up shooting a lot more since it will be much cheaper to shoot reloaded ammo. And that's fine, what's wrong with more shooting?

Basic beginning reloading:
Lyman T-Mag 2 turret press kit
Reloading dies and shellholder in whatever caliber
Dial calipers
Brass
Bullets
Powder
Primers
and then go shooting —-